--- title: "CARPENTRY MADE SIMPLE: Carpentry Made Simple" id: "3561" type: "page" slug: "01-carpentry-made-simple" published_at: "2026-07-18T00:05:52+00:00" modified_at: "2026-07-18T15:47:17+00:00" url: "https://preppers-paradise.com/library/carpentrymadesimple/01-carpentry-made-simple/" markdown_url: "https://preppers-paradise.com/library/carpentrymadesimple/01-carpentry-made-simple.md" excerpt: "This guide provides a comprehensive introduction to carpentry through 23 practical, stylish woodworking projects. Readers will progressively learn essential skills, techniques, and tool usage as they" taxonomy_category: - "Books" - "DIY & Home Improvement" - "Free Teaser" taxonomy_post_tag: - "building skills" - "carpentry" - "diy projects" - "furniture making" - "home improvement" - "how-to" - "tools" - "wood projects" - "woodworking" --- # CARPENTRY MADE SIMPLE: Carpentry Made Simple [← CARPENTRY MADE SIMPLE](/library/carpentrymadesimple/) Chapter 1 of 26 · Free teaser # CARPENTRY MADE SIMPLE 23 Stylish Projects • Learn as You Build ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_2_Picture_3.jpeg){alt="Carpentry Made Simple book cover illustration"} ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_3_Picture_0.jpeg){alt="Decorative illustration for book front matter"} Brimming with creative inspiration, how-to projects, and useful information to enrich your everyday life, Quarto Knows is a favourite destination for those pursuing their interests and passions. Visit our site and dig deeper with our books into your area of interest: Quarto Creates, Quarto Cooks, Quarto Homes, Quarto Lives, Quarto Drives, Quarto Explores, Quarto Gifts, or Quarto Kids. © 2018 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. First published in 2018 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint of The Quarto Group, 401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. T: (612) 344-8100 F: (612) 344-8692 www.QuartoKnows.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. Cool Springs Press titles are also available at discount for retail, wholesale, promotional, and bulk purchase. For details, contact the Special Sales Manager by email at specialsales@quarto.com or by mail at The Quarto Group, Attn: Special Sales Manager, 401 Second Avenue North, Suite 310, Minneapolis, MN 55401 USA. 10987654321 ISBN: 978-0-7603-5779-8 Digital edition: 978-0-76036-5-168 Softcover edition: 978-0-76035-7-798 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Names: Cool Springs Press, issuing body. Black & Decker Corporation (Towson, Md.), contributor. Title: Black & Decker custom grills & smokers: build your own backyard cooking & tailgating equipment / by editors of Cool Springs Press. Other titles: Black and Decker custom grills and smokers Description: Minneapolis, Minnesota: Cool Springs Press, [2017]. Includes bibliographical references and index. Identifiers: LCCN 2017030791 | ISBN 9780760353547 (pb) Subjects: LCSH: Outdoor cooking. | Barbecues (Fireplaces) | Gas grills. Classification: LCC TX840.B3 B5566 2017 | DDC 641.5/78--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017030791 Acquiring Editor: Mark Johanson Project Manager: Jordan Wiklund Art Director: James Kegley Photography: Rich Fleischman Layout: Kim Winscher Printed in China BLACK+DECKER and the BLACK+DECKER logo are trademarks of The Black & Decker Corporation and are used under license. All rights reserved. ## NOTICE TO READERS For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher and BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse of the information provided. The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers' instructions included with products, since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required: some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help. Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to your project. # Contents ## Introduction ## Personal Safety ## X-Chair ### Featured Tool: Drawknife ### Featured Skill: Woodburning Finish ## Nesting Crates ### Quick Tip: Zero-Clearance Throat Plate. ### Featured Tool: Tenoning Jig. ## Flat Panel Stool ### Featured Skill: Template Routing. ## Split-Top Coffee Table ### Quick Tip: Sanding Blocks ### Quick Tip: Tabletop Options ## Knockdown Workbench ## Hall Table ### Featured Hardware: Forged Nails. ### Featured Tool: Stacked Dado Set. ## Cantilevered Stand ### Featured Skill: Pilots, Countersinks, and Counterbores ## Bridle Joint Stool ### Featured Skill: Drawboring ## "Zippered" Corner Shelf ### Quick Tip: Stationary Belt Sander ### Quick Tip: Depth Stop ### Featured Tool: Self-Centering Doweling Jig ## Kid's Chairs ### Featured Skill: Template Routing ## Open Display Shelf ### Featured Tool: Zero-Clearance Miter Saw Table ### Featured Skill: Gluing and Clamping ## Hickory Knickknack Shelves ### Featured Hardware: Keyhole Hangers ## "Celebrating Plywood" Coffee Table ### Featured Tip: Using Gun-bluing Solution ## Exotic Shelf ### Featured Tool: Double Miter Gauge ### Featured Tip: Laying Out Curves with a Slat and String ## Oak Step Stool ### Quick Tip: Dowels vs. Pegs ### Featured Tool: Sliding T-Bevel ### Quick Tip: Cutting Angled Bridle Joints ## Frame-Leg Bench ### Quick Tip: Custom Sanding Block ### Featured Tool: Box Joint Jig ## Round End Table ### Featured Skill: Four-Sided Taper ### Featured Tip: Routing a Perfect Circle ## Sliding Barn Door ### Featured Tool: Circular Saw Cutting Guide ## Cross-Leg Desk ### Featured Skill: Angled Drilling ## Nightstand with Drawer ### Featured Tool: Biscuit Jointer ## Rietveld Chair ### Featured Tip: Spacer Blocks ## Floating Shelf ### Featured Skill: Scribing to a Wall ### Quick Tip: Hanging Torsion Box Shelves ## Danish Modern Buffet ### Featured Skill: Applying Solid Wood Edgebanding ### Featured Skill: Tapering Short Legs ## Appendix A: Nails ## Appendix B: Screws & Other Hardware ## Appendix C: Glue & Other Adhesives ## Appendix D: Metric Conversions ## Index ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_7_Picture_0.jpeg){alt="Full-page image showcasing a woodworking project"} ## Introduction aking useful, attractive furniture from wood is a skill for the novice as well as the experienced craftsman who has been plying his trade for decades. When we learn to talk, we start with sounds and progress to words and sentences. Building with wood is no different. We start with inspiration, learn a couple basic skills, and grow from there. Woodworkers have been devising ways to make things easier, safer, and more accurate for centuries. With this book, my hope is that you'll find inspiration not only in simple, elegant furniture, but also in the tips, jigs, and essential skills that I have found useful over the last thirty years. A handful of good tips and methods of work can open up worlds of possibilities. You may not own all the tools in this book, but I've tried to keep to a pretty basic tool kit. Where practical, I'll give you an alternative method using a more common tool than the one shown. The acquisition of more and better tools as you need or can afford them, like the skill in using them, takes time. Buy the best quality tools that you can afford. That said, the best chisel isn't necessarily the $50 hand-forged variety. It may be a beautiful, quality tool, but you can do the same work with a $5 chisel that you keep razor sharp. The 23 projects shown with complete plans in this book are arranged (more or less) in ascending complexity, starting with the basic two-board X-Chair. With each project I have highlighted one or two skills, materials, or tools that are key components of the process. The intent here is to create kind of a protracted "course" in home carpentry where you can add a new arrow to your carpentry quiver and build your skills with each project. Of course, it is not likely that anyone would make all 23 of the projects, but I do encourage you to read through the book from start to finish and follow along as the information accumulates. My hope is also that as you learn the fundamental techniques, you'll feel free to revise designs and come up with methods of work that suit you. You'll make mistakes, you'll find ways to fix them, and you'll end up having made something useful and beautiful. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_9_Picture_0.jpeg "A completed furniture project, likely one of the book's 23 projects") ## Personal Safety The threat of personal injury in a workshop is not something anyone wants to think about, but taking care with your personal safety is essential to making your shop experience a pleasant and productive one. It really doesn't take that much effort to look after your own well-being, and unsafe practices and a hazardous shop environment can be distracting and have a negative effect on your work. Establishing good work habits and a patient attitude will ensure that you're actively staying safe, while the basic safety gear that protects your eyes, ears, lungs, and hands provides essential passive backup. ### EYE PROTECTION It's a good idea to get into the habit of wearing safety glasses whenever you use power tools or do any finishing. Most tool manufacturers, for example, insist on it as a condition for using their tools—hand tools as well as power tools. Safety glasses and goggles offer more protection than standard eyeglasses. Their lenses are made of polycarbonate, which is more impact resistant than acrylic, the standard material for corrective lenses. Look for the high-impact Z87+ rating on the frames. Even if your regular glasses have polycarbonate lenses, safety glasses typically have larger lenses that provide more coverage and often wrap around or have side shields for greater protection. Safety glasses with tinted lenses are available for outdoor use, and prescription safety glasses can be purchased at many optical shops. Goggles add another layer of protection with a seal between the glasses frame and your face—a very real advantage when working with various types of eye and face protection are made for different types of work. For instance, goggles are needed when working with some liquids and when there's a lot of debris in the air. chemicals or in very dusty environments. And if you're grinding metal or doing wood turning, you should wear a full-face shield. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_10_Picture_11.jpeg "Person wearing earmuffs for hearing protection") Earplugs are best for blocking low frequencies, but you can wear them with muffs to cover all the bases. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_11_Picture_0.jpeg "Foam earplugs") Earmuffs are good at blocking high-frequency sound, so they're your best choice when operating tools such as routers, sanders, and vacuums. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_11_Picture_2.jpeg "Over-ear hearing protection earmuffs") same amount of noise—from about 15 to 30 decibels—but muffs block high frequencies better, while plugs are more effective at blocking low frequencies. Earplugs are more convenient because they're small, they're often very inexpensive, and it's easy to get them to seal tightly in the ear canal. The least expensive plugs are the disposable foam variety. The more durable and often more effective silicone earplugs are also available with a leash that keeps them conveniently draped around your neck. Good earmuffs should have soft ear cushions that conform around your head snugly but comfortably to block sound. The headband should be padded, adjustable, and articulated to provide a good, comfortable fit. Some muffs even offer built-in sound canceling, a radio, and the option to plug in a personal listening device. In extremely noisy situations, such as around construction sites, both plugs and muffs can be used at the same time for maximum effect. ### BREATHING PROTECTION Protecting your lungs from dust and fumes is the job of particulate (dust) masks and respirators (gas masks), respectively. And just like hearing protectors, they need to fit snugly around both your mouth and your nose to function properly. A loose-fitting dust mask will let dust enter around the sides, and an ill-fitting or poorly adjusted respirator won't keep fumes out of your lungs. Masks are often rated by the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) and the Mine Safety Health Administration (MSHA) for their function and effectiveness at filtering out fine particles. Good disposable dust masks have an adjustable nose clip and some also have a valve that improves comfort by expelling exhaled air. You'll want to be sure the mask doesn't interfere with your eye or ear protection and that it's comfortable to wear for extended periods. If the dust collection on the tool you're using is highly effective, you may not need to wear a mask. But it's almost impossible to collect all airborne dust when using lathes, jigsaws, miter saws, most sanders, and a few other tools. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_12_Picture_0.jpeg "Disposable particulate dust mask with adjustable nose clip") A particulate dust mask should be worn in dusty environments, but it's not effective for filtering vapors from finishes. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_12_Picture_2.jpeg "Full-face shield for eye and face protection") Face shields provide the protection you need when doing lathe work and some metalworking. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_12_Picture_4.jpeg "Respirator with dual cartridges for filtering fumes") To filter volatile organic compounds (VOCs), often contained in finishing products, you should wear a respirator. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_12_Picture_6.jpeg "Label on a respirator cartridge showing usage information") The label on a respirator cartridge will provide information about its use. If you can smell fumes through the mask, it's time to replace the cartridges. Finding the right respirator for your needs requires a little more attention. Most masks use two cartridges that are made to remove a variety of hazardous materials, such as VOCs, toxic dust, and acid gas. It's important to use the correct cartridges for your job and dispose of them when they're spent. If you can smell fumes through the mask, the cartridges need to be replaced. Respirators usually have a pre-filter to keep larger particles out of the cartridges, so you can also use it as a dust mask in a pinch. Disposable respirators are an option if you do a limited amount of finishing work. They'll last for several finishing sessions and cost less than masks that use replaceable cartridges. Some respirators have an integrated full-face shield, which is a nice feature to have to keep mist and particles out of your eyes if you're spray painting. Of course, a mask's fit is key to its effectiveness and comfort, so a mask with a silicone face piece is usually your best bet. Silicone is more conforming and comfortable than the plastics used on cheaper masks. ### HAND PROTECTION There are jobs when it makes sense to wear gloves, and there are times when you should never wear them. If you're working in close proximity to a moving blade or workpiece, you should take off the gloves for better dexterity. A blade can catch a glove and pull your hand into it, and that can cause a far more serious injury than might happen without gloves. Specifically, avoid wearing gloves when using a tablesaw, a bandsaw, a lathe, a belt sander, a router, and similar tools. For that matter, avoid wearing loose-fitting clothing of any kind when working with power tools. There's too much chance they can get caught and pull you into the cutter. But gloves should be worn to give your hands a needed break and save them from wear and tear when handling lumber, sanding, applying finishes, and doing cleanup chores. Leather gloves afford the most protection when working with lumber, and rough stock in particular. They'll guard against splinters and blisters, but they can get warm if worn for long periods. Cloth and leather gloves provide more ventilation and can work for similar jobs. There are numerous brands of work gloves with hybrid synthetic and leather construction that have a trim fit and job-specific features—such as materials with extra traction for an enhanced grip, abrasion protection for extended life, and padding for vibration reduction. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_13_Picture_8.jpeg "Pair of leather work gloves") Leather work gloves provide excellent protection for carrying lumber. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_13_Picture_10.jpeg "Knit work gloves with rubberized palms") Knit rubber-coated gloves are relatively cool to wear and they're useful for many shop applications, including finishing. Disposable nitrile exam gloves are handy to have around for applying water-based finishes and cleaning up liquid spills. But if you're using solvent-base finishes, you should use thicker nitrile gloves. Some other useful gloves to have around the shop include knit cotton bricklayer's gloves with rubberized grips, Kevlar or stainless-steel chain-mail gloves that provide cut protection for woodcarving and close detail work with chisels, and fingerless gloves that protect your palm without compromising dexterity. ### FIRE PREVENTION Beyond personal protection gear there are a number of items that should be in your shop to ensure safety. The most important of these is a multipurpose ABC fire extinguisher. This type of extinguisher uses dry chemicals that can fight fires caused by common combustibles (wood, paper, cloth), chemicals (liquid finishing products), and electrical equipment (motors, wiring). To be on the safe side, you should have more than one, storing them in easily accessible locations and not hidden behind other equipment. A smoke detector or combination smoke detector/carbon monoxide (CO) alarm goes hand-in-glove with the fire extinguisher. A combination alarm makes the most sense if you have a furnace or heater in your shop, but this type of alarm also provides a more reliable and responsive system for detecting fires. Most alarms are battery operated, but some are hardwired with a battery backup, although the battery-only units offer the best installation flexibility. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_14_Picture_6.jpeg) ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_14_Picture_7.jpeg) ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_14_Picture_8.jpeg){Models of smoke and CO detectors: (A) hard-wired CO detector; (B) ionizing smoke detector; (C) photoelectric smoke detector; (D) heat-activated fire detector.} Shops are susceptible to fires, so a smoke/CO detector is essential and may be required by code in some communities. Models shown here include: (A) hard-wired CO detector; (B) ionizing smoke detector; (C) photoelectric smoke detector; (D) heat-activated fire detector. The average life of an alarm is about seven years, and it must be replaced once it quits functioning. All alarms have an end-of-life and a low-battery warning, so you'll never be left unprotected. In some communities, smoke/CO detectors may be required in home shops by code, so check with your local code authority. ## FIRST AID It's inevitable that you'll suffer an occasional self-inflicted cut or splinter, so it pays to be prepared with a first-aid kit. Most shop injuries are minor and can be dealt with on the spot. There's no need to go overboard—you won't be performing surgery—so a basic kit should be all you need. At minimum, the kit should include bandages in several shapes and sizes, gauze pads, sterile eye pads, alcohol pads, antiseptic or antibiotic ointment, bandage tape, small scissors, tweezers, exam gloves, cotton swabs, and over-the-counter pain medication. In the case of a more serious injury, such as one that bleeds profusely or is quite deep, don't try to tend to it yourself—it's not a DIY project and requires the attention of a healthcare professional. What's really important is to ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_15_Picture_4.jpeg){A well-stocked first-aid kit specifically for shop accidents.} Should an accident happen, it pays to be prepared with a first-aid kit that's equipped specifically for shop mishaps. remember that accidents most often happen for reasons such as losing focus, rushing through work, and becoming distracted or impatient. If an accident does happen—even a small one—take a break, gather your composure, and eat a light snack. For that matter, make a habit of taking regular breaks to help prevent mishaps. But sometimes things just get out of control and you need to summon help, so keep your cell phone close at hand with the numbers of physicians, hospitals, urgent-care facilities, and 911 on speed dial. ## TOOL SAFETY FEATURES Removing accident-causing variables from your work routine is another way keep you out of trouble. There are some basic shop safety devices that should be standard equipment in your shop, on your workbench, and at stationary machines. Push sticks or push pads are essential for guiding stock close to blades and bits on tablesaws, bandsaws, jointers, and router tables. They allow you to maintain steady pressure and direction on the workpiece while keeping your hands a safe distance from the cutter. Commercially made push sticks are available in a variety of shapes, or you can make your own out of wood or plastic. Attempting to hold or stabilize a workpiece with one hand while using a tool with the other is almost always an accident waiting to happen. Bench dogs and stops are most often associated with high-end cabinetmaker's benches to stabilize larger workpieces, but they're easy to make and install on any basic bench with a solid top. Simply use 3/4-inch dowels and bore holes for them in the bench top. Then glue and screw small blocks on top of the dowels to prevent them from falling through the holes. When used together with clamps on the edge of the bench, they'll secure the work and keep it from moving when sawing, routing, and sanding. Along the same lines as bench dogs, bench vises are generally used to secure smaller pieces and are a must-have fixture for all shops. Some are mounted to the edge of the bench top and others can be bolted to the top. They have an almost unlimited range of uses, including holding work for planing, drilling, routing, and gluing. Some edge-mounted vises with built-in dogs can also be used in conjunction with bench dogs to clamp or hold long workpieces. For this to work, the top of the vise must be level with the bench top and in line with the bench dog stations on the top. Other devices that are usually included with stationary tools, such as guards and miter gauge, should be used when appropriate. When setting blade exposure on any tool, it should be the minimum amount possible while still being able to make a successful cut. You may occasionally have visitors in your shop, and they need to be as aware of your shop safety rules as you are. Make it clear to anyone entering your shop while you're using a power tool that they should not interrupt in any way that might startle you. And if they enter unannounced, ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_16_Picture_3.jpeg){Bench dogs securing a workpiece on a workbench.} Bench dogs aren't just a luxury for fancy workbenches; they can stabilize workpieces and keep them from unexpectedly sliding out from under a tool. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_16_Picture_5.jpeg){Various push sticks and push blocks for safe use with shop machinery.} Push sticks and push block/pads should be standard equipment around all shop machinery. They'll keep your hands a safe distance from spinning blades and cutters. they should stand clear until you've completed the work and not try to assist you unless you request it. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_16_Picture_8.jpeg){A bench vise securely holding a workpiece.} A bench vise holds workpieces so you don't have to. And it makes sense to have more than one for different types and sizes of work. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_17_Picture_0.jpeg){A finished X-Chair design, simple and portable.} ## X-Chair This chair is one of my favorite designs—no pretense, no fasteners, the picture of portable simplicity. I've always been a bit intimidated by designing and building chairs. There are so many elements to take into account. Proportions and angles have to be just right, as an uncomfortable chair is a ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_17_Picture_4.jpeg){The X-chair broken down into its two components, highlighting its portability, with an optional rope handle.} Because this chair consists of just two boards that are fitted together via a slot, the chair is fully portable. But if you'll be moving it around, rig up a rope handle to make it easier to transport. failure by any measure. This chair, boiled down to the bare essentials of seating, removes any whiff of intimidation. And if it doesn't turn out quite right the first time, the investment is paltry. In spite of its simplicity, once you've fitted it to suit your stature, it's surprisingly comfortable. And perhaps best of all it breaks down easily into two boards that can be toted to any picnic or perhaps even your favorite Renfest. (It is a very old design.) ### SHOPPING LIST - 1: 2 × 12 × 96 Construction-grade lumber* - Finishing materials (Spar varnish—a nautical finish—was used here.) - * WOOD SELECTION: Choose Douglas fir if your local lumber supplier carries it. Or you may use any of the more common "SPF" lumbers (spruce-pine-fir), which are called "whitewood" by some sellers. None of these species is exterior-rated, but they are strong. If your chair will be exposed to the elements, apply a UV-and-moisture-resistant finish. You may also use cedar or cypress to make the chair, both of which are naturally moisture-resistant and may be left unfinished. (They will turn gray over time.) Both species are softer and more splinter-prone than the "SPF" varieties, however, so your chair may not last as long. Or, you can choose pressure-treated lumber. Some DIYers are reluctant to use chemical-treated lumber, but today's generation of preservatives are far less toxic than the old arsenic-based chemicals that are responsible for the bad reputation of pressure-treated wood. "PT" lumber resists moisture and insect damage, but it is prone to warpage and doesn't take finishes (especially paint) as well as untreated wood. ### FEATURED TOOL #### Drawknife To give the edges a natural look, shape them with a drawknife. The drawknife works by pulling it toward your body. You'll need a vise to hold the parts while you're shaping them. Well honed, a drawknife allows you great flexibility. You can hog off large chunks of wood or take very fine shavings. You can buy drawknives at most woodworking stores or in catalogs—generally they are not too expensive. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_18_Picture_9.jpeg){A drawknife, used for shaping wood edges.} ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_19_Figure_0.jpeg){Diagram showing dimensions or assembly details for the X-Chair.} ## How to Build an X-Chair STEP 1: Prepare the 8'-long 2 × 12 by rip-cutting about 1/4" off of each long edge, using a circular saw and cutting guide (see page 127)—or a table saw if you have one. The finished width of the workpiece should be 11". Removing the beveled factory edges gives the board cleaner lines and makes it look less like a piece of dimensional construction lumber. **STEP 2:** Cut the $2 times 12$ in half lengthwise, giving you two 48"-long pieces to make the Backrest and the Seat. STEP 3: Lay out and cut the slot (a kind of mortise) 16" from the end of one board, which will become the Backrest. To cut the slot, drill an access hole (3/8" or so) in each corner, just inside the cutting lines, and cut the opening with a jigsaw. Square off the corners with the jigsaw or a square file. To cut interior holes and slots, drill out the corners and then connect the dots with a jigsaw to give you straight edges. TIP: The biggest mistake beginners make when using a jigsaw is to apply too much force—this can cause the blade to bend and result in an uneven cut. Just hold the tool firmly and let the saw do the work. STEP 4: On the Seat board, draw cutting lines 2" from and parallel to the board edges. Mark the cutting lines 131/2" from the opposite end of board. These are the stop lines. With a circular saw and straightedge guide, cut along the lines but stop cutting just short of the stop lines. Then, finish the cuts with a handsaw. Make straight shoulder cuts along the stop lines to free the wood waste. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_20_Picture_6.jpeg){Drilling pilot holes in the corners of a slot before cutting with a jigsaw.} #### QUICK TIP #### Cross-Reference Make your own straightedge cutting guide and customize it to fit the shoe of your circular saw. This is an invaluable guide, especially if you do not have access to a table saw for making long, straight cuts. See page 127 for instructions. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_20_Picture_10.jpeg){A circular saw used with a straightedge guide for accurate cuts.} #### FEATURED SKILL ##### Woodburning Finish As an alternative to staining, you can achieve a unique appearance using a propane torch. This is a variation on a Japanese wood treatment technique called shou sugi ban. It's supereasy, not to mention mesmerizing and slightly addictive. Make sure you have good ventilation and nothing flammable nearby. Lightly pass the torch flame across the wood surfaces. When you're done burning, let the wood cool, wipe off or sand off any excess charring, and apply a protective finish of your choice. Just wave the flame over the wood until the desired color is achieved. ![Testing the fit of the seat board in the backrest slot.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_21_Picture_4.jpeg) 5. Test the fit of the trimmed end of the Seat board by sliding it into the slot in the Backrest. If the fit is too snug, enlarge the slot slightly by sanding or filing. 6. Lay out the profile cuts on the sitting end of the Seat board. You'll find the dimensions I used on page 18. These are noncritical dimensions, meaning they won't affect the structural integrity of the chair. But they will affect the appearance and the comfort. Everyone who has tested the chair I built has found this seat shape to be comfortable, but if you are so inclined, you can try out a few different shapes and proportions on some scrap wood. TIP: Use a paint can or other round object with a diameter close to the one you are plotting as a guide for laying out the curved cuts. 7. Use a jigsaw to cut the seat to the shape you have plotted. Sand the edges smooth. 8. Now you can make adjustments to the angle of the back and the seat height to suit you. Start by fitting the two parts together so the Seat board is snug in the slot and fully seated against the Backrest. Take a seat and see how it feels. 9. To make adjustments, trim the front leg (the bottom of the Backrest) and the back leg (the bottom of the Seat board) a little at a time. You'll also want to cut your trim lines so the angle allows the legs to sit flush on a flat surface. The best way to assure good results with this type of cut is to transfer cutting lines using physical aides (as opposed to setting a prescribed cutting angle and hoping it works). In this case, a suitable aide is just a couple of pieces of 3/4"-thick scrap wood that raise your pencil high enough to cover both edges of the workpiece. To physically scribe cutting lines, stack some pieces of scrap wood next to the workpiece until the stack is higher than the top of the workpiece end. Then simply trace around the workpiece, sliding the stack as you go. ![Tracing a cutting line along the bottom of a chair leg using scrap wood as a guide.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_21_Picture_11.jpeg) 10. Make the angled cuts at the bottoms of the legs. A woodworker with a bandsaw would probably use that tool for this cut, but you can get good results making a careful cut with an ordinary handsaw. Cut both legs and test-sit on the chair. You can make the back more upright by shortening the front leg. Make the back more reclined by shortening the back leg. The angle on the back leg will likely be too steep for your circular saw, so use a handsaw to make this cut. 11. Give your chair a more finished appearance by tooling a gentle profile into the top end of the Backrest. As shown, we simply cut a curved profile that starts 2" down from each top corner and slopes up evenly to the centerpoint. Lay out the curve and cut it with a jigsaw. Use a sander to smooth all surfaces of both parts. 12. Apply the finishing touches. You have many options here. You can simply sand the surfaces and edges and then paint or stain and topcoat the boards. Nothing wrong with that. Since this is such a simple project, I decided to get a little fancy with the finish. I contoured the edges with an old-fashioned tool called a draw knife (see page 17) and then scorched them with a torch to give them some color and interest (see the Featured Skill on page 20). ![Example of a contoured chair backrest.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_22_Picture_4.jpeg) #### QUICK TIP Get yourself a drum sander attachment for your electric or cordless drill and use it to smooth the edges of the curved cuts. If you have access to a drill press, mount the drum sander in that tool to get perfect vertical edges. ![Using a drum sander attachment in a drill press to smooth curved edges.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_22_Picture_7.jpeg) If you will be taking advantage of the portability of this chair, make a carrying strap or some kind of rig to wrap around the two boards for ease of transport (see the photo on page 16). ## Nesting Crates ![A stack of nesting crates used as shelves.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_23_Picture_0.jpeg) Leave them rough for the garage, or finish them and stack them together in the living room. Or just use them as crates. A set of these nesting-crate shelves was one of my first woodworking projects. Besides being useful and having a clever design, they're also a great learning project. When I made mine, I just grabbed the cheapest construction-grade boards I could find. That was a mistake. The shelves worked, but these boards weren't very straight to begin with, and they warped further after they dried out. This warping made the flat surfaces not very flat, relegating my shelving project to a life in the garage. So pick straight, flat, and dry "Select" grade lumber for this project. In building these crates, you'll practice cutting accurate half-lap joinery. With so many identical parts, they're easy to make in multiples. The nesting feature locks them together. A stack of these crates is extra strong if they're stacked staggered like bricks so the gaps are not aligned. If you stack them more than three crates high, make sure to attach them to the wall. These nesting crates are modular and are held together with a compression fit. They can be arranged in any configuration you choose to form a simple shelving unit. You can offset them, as in the photo on the previous page. Or, make a vertical stack. Just press the slats on the bottom of one crate into the grooves on the top of a lower crate (left) and slide them together until the ends are flush (right) or look however you want them to look. ![Illustration showing how nesting crates connect.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_24_Picture_1.jpeg) ![Detailed diagram of nesting crate connection.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_24_Figure_2.jpeg) ![Detailed diagram of nesting crate dimensions and assembly.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_25_Figure_0.jpeg) ### How to Build Nesting Crates 1. Prepare the 1 × 6 stock by ripping each board into 2"-wide strips. Because the actual width of a nominal 1 × 6 is 5½", you can get two 2"-wide strips out of each board. Use a table saw if you have one, or use a straightedge guide and a circular saw (see page 127) to rip-cut the stock. 2. Cut your workpieces to length. Each crate requires thirteen boards, so if you are making more than one or two you should use a stop block on a power miter saw to save time and, more importantly, ensure that the like parts are the exact same length. Some power miter saws come with an extendable fence that has built-in stops for setting cutting lengths, but you can accomplish the same thing (and manage longer workpieces) by clamping a stop block and auxiliary base to your worktable. The surface of the stop block should be the same height as the saw bed. 3. Make the half-lap joinery cuts. Next to butt joints, half-lap joints are about as simple as joinery gets. Each mating workpiece needs only two cuts: the face cut, which involves cutting parallel to the faces of the board and essentially reducing its thickness; and a shoulder cut, which is the simple trim cut that releases the waste wood from the face cut and is made perpendicular to the board edges. If you own a table saw or a band saw, half-laps are quick and easy. If not, cutting them is a bit more time consuming because you really have to use a handsaw such as a backsaw. It really doesn't matter if you make the face cuts or the shoulder cuts first. I prefer to start with the shoulder cuts so I have a visual stopping point when I make the face cuts on my table saw. Whatever saw you are using, set it up to make a straight cut that is half the thickness of the workpiece. For efficiency, make your shoulder cuts first. ![Making shoulder cuts on a workpiece using a table saw.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_26_Picture_6.jpeg) ![Close-up of shoulder cuts made with a table saw and miter gauge.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_26_Picture_7.jpeg) Make the shoulder cuts first. I used a tablesaw with a miter gauge and stop block. Another option is to use a hand miter box. 4. Make the face cuts. These are trickier, even with a table saw. If using a table saw, a tenoning jig is a big help and makes the work much safer (see Featured Tool, next page). If using a handsaw, you'll need to clamp each workpiece vertically into a woodworking vise and carefully cut along a cutting line. > To make the face cuts on a table saw, a tenoning jig is a great help (see next page). 5. Lightly sand the mating parts in the half-lap joints to get rid of any ridges or splinters. ![Handsaw cutting a half-lap joint with workpiece clamped vertically.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_27_Picture_3.jpeg) #### QUICK TIP: Zero-Clearance Throat Plate To use a tenoning jig, you'll need a zero-clearance throat plate for your table saw. Most factory throat plates have too much space around the blade, so as you're cutting narrow parts, they can slip down inside the table because there's no surface for them to ride on. A zero-clearance throat plate's opening is just wide enough for the blade to pass through, giving full support to narrow parts. To make a zero-clearance throat plate, you'll need material that's the same thickness as your saw's original throat plate. Trace your throat plate onto the blank material, cut it out, and sand to fit. With the blank throat plate in place, set the fence over it to hold it down while you raise the spinning blade through it. ![Diagram of a zero-clearance throat plate with blade path.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_27_Picture_8.jpeg) 6. Glue the end frames together using spring clamps at the corners. Check to make sure they are square using a carpenter's square or by measuring the diagonals. No additional reinforcement should be needed as there is a lot of glue surface. When the glue is dry, sand the frames. 7. Predrill clearance holes and countersinks on the faces of the slat ends, centered 3/8" from the board edges. The screws will be covered up when you stack the crates. 8. Sand all the parts, starting with 100-grit, working your way up to 220-grit. 9. Clamp each slat to the end frames one at a time so the ends of the slats are flush with the outsides of the frames. Use 2" spacers to set the slat locations. Drill pilot holes into the frames. Fasten the slats using glue and 11/2" coarse wood screws or trim-head screws. ![Attaching slats to end frames using spacers and screws.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_28_Picture_6.jpeg) Use spacer blocks to accurately position the slats and hold them in place while you attach them. 10. Apply a finish of your choice. I chose to keep these crates simple and natural and, because they will live indoors, I did not apply any wood finish. #### FEATURED TOOL ##### Tenoning Jig A tenoning jig is a staple for any table saw. Cut the tall fence (part A). Cut parts (B) and (C) to fit your saw's fence, and then assemble them as shown. Attach the assembly to the tall fence using glue and screws, and then glue and screw the two vertical fence supports (D) to the back of the fence. Assemble the blade cover box (E) and fasten it to the fence using glue and screws. Attach the back fence (F). Don't glue the back fence; just fasten it with screws. With regular use, the back fence will wear out and need to be replaced. It's critical that the tall fence and back fence are exactly 90° to the saw's top. To use the tenoning jig, clamp your workpiece against the back fence (which you use to push the workpiece through the blade) and to the tall fence. NOTE: You should use a zero-clearance throat plate with this tenoning jig (see previous page). ![Diagram illustrating the assembly of a tenoning jig.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_28_Picture_11.jpeg) A tenoning jig offers a safe and accurate option for tooling vertical workpieces on a table saw. ## Five Panel Stool ![A finished five-panel stool.](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_29_Picture_0.jpeg) All the elements of a good stool are here: stability, a footrest, and a flat place to sit. There's no fancy joinery involved here, just a few angled cuts. I used glue and screws to assemble the stool. This stool will look nice with a stain or natural finish, but for me, the addition of bright color on this design really elevates the appeal of the stool. You'll use a circular saw with a cutting guide to cut down the plywood, and learn how to use a router and router template to make the cutouts in the panels. As I have shown it here, this is largely a router project. Routers are very versatile tools, and if you are at all serious about woodworking, you'll want to look into getting one and learning how to take advantage of the possibilities it will open up for you. But if you are not in a router place yet, an assortment of hand tools (coping saw, files, power jigsaw and sanders) will get the job done, too. ### FIVE PANEL STOOL SHOPPING LIST - ¾" plywood - Trim-head screws or wood screws - Sandpaper (120-, 180-, 220-grit) - Biscuits for router template (optional) - Finishing materials (Primer and enamel paint are used in the project as shown.) ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_30_Picture_6.jpeg){alt="Image of Five Panel Stool part"} ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_30_Picture_7.jpeg){alt="Another image of Five Panel Stool part"} ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_30_Picture_8.jpeg){alt="Yet another image of Five Panel Stool part"} ### FEATURED SKILL #### Template Routing To make accurate duplicate parts or cutouts, start by making an accurate router template. Trace the template onto your workpiece, and then rough-cut the pattern, staying just outside the line; up to 1/4" is fine. This makes routing easier, as there isn't much material to trim off. If you can fasten the template to a nonvisible surface using finish nails or screws, that's preferable. If not, you'll need to clamp it in place, moving the clamps as you go. When using a router, you'll notice that it wants to pull one direction. Always feed the router against that pull. Use a pattern-following bit with a collar chucked into the router to make the edge profiling cuts. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_30_Picture_12.jpeg){alt="Template routing illustration"} ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_31_Figure_0.jpeg){alt="Diagram or drawing related to Five Panel Stool"} ### How to Build a Five Panel Stool STEP 1: Cut the two "blanks" for the legs to rough size, starting out with rectangles that are a few inches longer and wider than the finished length and width of the legs. When making fairly precise parts, it is usually a good idea to cut your workpieces down to a manageable size, rather than trying to manipulate large sheet goods. STEP 2: Stack the two rectangles and clamp them together for gang-cutting (cutting multiple pieces at the same time for efficiency and to ensure that the cuts are identical). Make the angled cuts along the sides using a circular saw and straightedge cutting guide (see page 127), trimming the workpieces to finished width and taper. For most sheet goods (like plywood or MDF), a blade with a high tooth-per-inch count will give a smoother cut with less blade tear-out. STEP 3: Cut the legs to length, making parallel 5° bevel cuts along the tops and bottoms. Use a table saw or a circular saw set to 5° and a straightedge to make the bevel cuts. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_32_Picture_4.jpeg){alt="Making bevel cuts on a table saw"} A table saw is well-equipped for making beveled crosscuts in plywood or any other sheet good. If you are using the fence for guidance (instead of a miter gauge), make sure to flip the workpieces after cutting the first end so the bevel of the other end is parallel to the first cut. Check the bevel angles with a T-bevel after both legs are cut. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_32_Picture_6.jpeg){alt="Checking bevel angle with a T-bevel"} After making the bevel cuts, set one of the workpieces on a flat surface and set a T-bevel to match the angle of the workpiece relative to the worksurface. Use the T-bevel to check the other legs (top and bottom) to transfer the angle to the stretchers. STEP 4: If you are using a router and pattern-following bit, make the pattern. Cut 3"-wide strips of ½"-thick plywood to make the four parts of the frame template. Assemble the strips into the template using glue and a biscuit joiner and biscuits. STEP 5: Position the template on each leg, trace the opening, and then make a rough cutout of the waste, about 1/4" inside each cutting line, using a jigsaw (drill starter holes at the corners first). A router and pattern-following bit will give you a smooth finished cut, but they work best if you have removed most of the waste first. If you will rely on a sander or file to finish and smooth the cutouts, you can cut a little closer to the lines with the jigsaw. Stay about 1/4" outside of the line when you're cutting out the opening. This leaves very little to rout off, and you're far enough away from the line so you don't have to worry about cutting inside of it. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_33_Picture_2.jpeg){alt="Jigsaw rough cutting an opening"} STEP 6: Attach the template to the inside face of each leg and rout the opening using a collared pattern-following bit (see page 29). If you are not using a router, sand the interior cutouts up to the cutting lines with a random-orbit sander. STEP 7: Rough-cut the seat blank so it is slightly wider all around than the finished size. For a perfectly flush fit, plan on attaching an oversized seat and then sanding it to final size. STEP 8: Cut the stretchers to final size. Mark the stretcher positions on each leg, and then drill clearance holes for attaching them to the legs. STEP 9: Attach the stretchers to the legs using glue and wood screws. To install the stretchers, clamp the top stretcher between the two legs and drill a pilot hole into the stretcher from the top hole on each leg. Remove the clamps, apply glue, and then assemble with screws. Drill pilot holes and install the rest of the screws. Repeat the process for the bottom stretcher. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_33_Picture_8.jpeg){alt="Assembling stool stretchers to legs"} STEP 10: Test-fit the seat blank onto the stool leg assembly. It should be just slightly oversized on all sides. If it is more than 1/8" or so longer or wider, trim it down with your table saw or circular saw set to a 5° bevel. Attach the seat blank to the tops of the legs with glue and finish nails. STEP 11: Use power sanders to trim the edges of the seat so they are exactly flush with the lines of the legs and follow the same taper angles (5°). Start with a belt sander, but stop just before you have sanded the edges to flush and finish the shaping with a random orbit sander. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_34_Picture_2.jpeg){alt="Sanding stool seat flush with legs"} Cut the seat slightly oversize on all sides and then sand it until it is precisely flush once you have attached it. STEP 12: Sand all the wood surfaces. Wipe clean with a rag and mineral spirits. Apply the finish. If you are using a two-tone paint scheme like I did, prime the entire project first and then tape off the parts that will have the darker paint with masking tape. Apply one or two coats of the lighter color and then remove the tape. Then, tape off the painted surfaces and apply the darker color. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_35_Picture_0.jpeg){alt="Finished Split-Top Coffee Table"} ## Split-Top Coffee Table Convert an engineered structural beam into an extraordinary addition to any home. low profile and clean lines lend a quiet, comfortable feel to this contemporary coffee table. Construction couldn't be easier. The two top slabs register onto dowels in the tops of the legs, so the entire project has just four parts. This is a very basic design technique that can be adapted to just about any tabletop you want to use: a large wood slab, exotic deck boards, part of an old door... basically, anything that is broad and flat will work. I used an engineered wood beam, which is typically used in rough construction to support interior load. The one I used, called an "LVL" beam (which stands for laminated veneer lumber), is 11½" wide and has up to twice the load-bearing capability of 2 × 12 boards ganged together face-to-face, so I know it will be a durable table. It also has a very interesting grain figure once you do a little sanding. Although it is a strong and visually interesting material, LVL costs around four times as much as dimensional pine lumber, so be prepared for a little sticker shock if you choose it. ### SPLIT-TOP COFFEE TABLE SHOPPING LIST ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_36_Picture_1.jpeg){alt="Wood glue bottle"} - Wood glue ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_36_Picture_3.jpeg){alt="LVL beam segment"} - 1: 1 3/4" × 12" (nominal) × 14' LVL beam - Sandpaper (120-, 180-grit) ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_36_Picture_5.jpeg){alt="Sandpaper sheets or pads"} ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_36_Picture_6.jpeg){alt="Dowel pins"} - *DOWEL PINS* are sized to be the same diameter as dowels, but they are intended for use only in wood joinery. They are usually made from denser, stronger hardwood than the pine that most dowels are milled from, so they will resist breaking better. And because they are fluted, they allow glue into the dowel hole to create a better, stronger bond than a regular dowel, which will tend to force all the glue down into the bottom of the dowel hole when you drive it in. Many building centers and lumberyards will carry dowel pins, but you may need to look at a woodworking specialty store or online. #### QUICK TIP #### Sanding Blocks Most people make hand sanding blocks from pieces of scrap wood and sheets of sandpaper. I prefer to use sanding belts made for a belt sander. Because they are a contiguous loop, you don't have to worry about tucking the ends of the paper around the board, where they usually come off. I just look around the shop and try to find some MDF (see page 41) or plywood scrap and then cut it so it fits snugly inside the belt. You can leave the ends and corners of the board square if you like, but I prefer to round them over. You'll need to experiment a bit to get the length right for the belts you have. You can also custom-cut sanding belts to match the size of your block or the object you are sanding. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_36_Picture_12.jpeg){alt="Custom sanding block with belt"} ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_37_Figure_0.jpeg){alt="Diagram or drawing related to Split-Top Coffee Table"} ### How to Build a Split-Top Coffee Table STEP 1: Cut two tabletop boards and two legs to length by crosscutting the wood stock. If you are following this plan, you'll need a pair of full-width, 60"-long pieces for the tabletop, as well as two leg parts. STEP 2: Cut the legs to width: they are narrower in width than the tabletop workpieces. You can either trim 1 1/2" off one edge of each leg, or trim 3/4" off each edge. Many woodworkers (myself included) would opt to trim both edges because you never know for sure if the factory edges are actually straight, and sometimes they get dinged up in transit. STEP 3: Sand the surfaces and edges of all parts up to 180-grit, being careful not to round over any corners; keep everything as square and sharp as possible. Because engineered beams like the ones I used here often have paint and other markings on the surfaces, I started with a belt sander and a 60-grit belt and basically resurfaced them to erase all of the markings. Use a finer belt or a random-orbit sander to finish-sand the surfaces and remove any splinters. A belt-sander with a 60-grit belt will make quick work of "erasing" paint and lumber markings on any wood workpiece. Run a 2' or longer level across the wood surface to identify any high spots, and then sand them down to be flush with the surrounding surface. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_38_Picture_6.jpeg){alt="Belt sanding an engineered beam"} ### STEP 4 Lay the two tabletop boards upside down on a flat, protected surface. Insert a few ½" spacers between the inner board edges (or if your planned gap differs, use a different spacer width). You can clamp the boards together for marking if you wish, although if you are using engineered beam sections like these, you will find they are rather heavy and not likely to shift. Position the legs exactly where you want them and then trace around them on the undersides of the tabletop pieces. Position the legs on the underside of the tabletop boards and trace around them. This gives you an exact location when you're locating and drilling the dowel holes in the tops. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_38_Picture_9.jpeg "Tracing the outline of the legs on the underside of the tabletop boards.") ### STEP 5 Plot out the locations of the dowel joints on the tops of the legs, centered side to side. For this project, I used two dowels per tabletop board at each leg, with a dowel placed 1" in from each end of each leg. You can use more if you wish, but realize that the more dowels you add the harder it becomes to get the dowels all to register in the mating dowel holes during assembly. ### STEP 6 Drill the dowel holes in the tops of the legs, slightly deeper than one-half the length of your dowels or dowel pins. The dowel holes should be the same diameter as the dowels (3/8" as shown). If you have a portable drill stand for your power drill, this would be a great time to use it to ensure that the dowel holes are exactly perpendicular to the wood surface you are drilling into. ### STEP 7 To transfer the exact locations of the dowel holes in the legs to the undersides of your tabletop pieces, insert dowel centers into the dowel holes in the legs and then press the legs down onto the tabletop inside the outline you drew. Dowel centers are small metal marking aids that have sharp points in the center. They are sized to match common dowel diameters. Set one dowel center in each hole on the top of each leg so the point is sticking out slightly from the leg. Position the workpiece with the dowel centers against the mating workpiece and press them together. When you separate the workpieces, you will find small drilling points in each tabletop piece at precisely the locations of the dowel holes in the legs. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_39_Picture_4.jpeg "Dowel centers inserted into the drilled holes on the top of a leg, ready to mark the tabletop.") ### STEP 8 Separate the legs and tabletop and then apply wood glue into all dowel holes. Drive a dowel pin or dowel into each dowel hole in each leg, and then position the legs over the leg location and seat the other ends of the dowels in the mating dowel holes. Apply some glue to the mating surfaces of the leg and tabletop as well. Rap the bottoms of the legs with a wood mallet to make sure the parts are flush together—but don't get carried away and damage the legs. Remove any glue squeeze-out from each dowel joint before it dries. ### STEP 9 Lightly finish-sand all the parts again and then apply the finish. I used a purple mahogany, semitransparent wood stain on the tabletop and a dark walnut stain on the base, followed by a topcoat of low-gloss polyurethane varnish. #### **QUICK TIP** #### **Tabletop Options** The basic tablemaking technique shown here is really quite simple and can be adapted pretty easily to just about any tabletop material you like. For example, a beautiful slab of wood or even a section of an old door. As long as the surfaces of the top material are relatively flat, you can use the same doweling technique shown in this split-top project to affix the top to the legs. And even if the underside of the workpiece you want to use for the top is not flat and even, you can always scribe the tops of the legs to follow the surface profile. It makes positioning the dowels a bit trickier, but if you use the dowel centers as shown in step 7, you should get good results. ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_40_Picture_3.jpeg "A finished split-top table, demonstrating the tabletop options.") ![](https://preppers-paradise.com/wp-content/uploads/x402-books/carpentrymadesimple/_page_41_Picture_0.jpeg "Close-up detail or another view of the finished table project.")